Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help Building An Actual Wall

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Help Building An Actual Wall

    I need some help from all of you archies out there.
    This isn't Revit related per say. I put it in here to get the most views.

    I've worked with the client to come up with a more modern dry cleaner design. I've got something he likes, but I need to know how to actually build the wood walls in front. This isn't something we've done before. We use mostly masonry exteriors on all of our buildings.

    It will be on metal studs. Would you put gyp on the exterior (I'm guessing yes). I don't think plywood would be needed. What type of wood would you use? Cedar? Ipe maybe? 2X6 or 2X8 to get the correct look? Are the panels just nailed to the substrate? Glued?

    I've attached a few pics. One shows my rendering concept. The other shows an existing picture he found that he wants to match.
    I will have to model this in Revit to do wall sections, but I can handle that.

    If anyone out there has built a wall like this before and can help me out, I'd appreciate it.
    Attached Files
    dzatto
    Moderator
    "OMG I killed Revit"
    Last edited by dzatto; November 9, 2011, 09:00 PM.
    Dan

    #2
    Hi Dan,
    Wood on the outside is in a pretty aggressive environment. The expansion and contraction is likely not to play nice with glues and the like.
    Thats why outside timber is usually weatherboards of some kind. I like what you're trying to achieve.
    A system solution might be the best:
    Look here :
    Timber Facades, Wood Cladding, Material in Prodema
    Robert Costa, Principal
    Breukel Costa Architects

    Sydney, Australia

    Revit on ...prescription...
    Windows 7 on Imac 27" quad core, VMware

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Dan.

      I never built wooden wall of the size you have, but I built several wooden porticoes.
      Steel sub-construction was fixed to a main building, on to which we put oriented strand boards. Final layer of wood was glued on OSB.
      Preferred wood for finish layer was teak, iroko, ype or similar. Don't forget to cover it properly on top (sheet metal drip). It has to be ventilated (from the inside), and avoid use of air tight coating.
      P3260327.JPGP3260328.JPGP3260329.JPGDSC00624.JPG

      Comment


        #4
        Western Red Cedar and Florida Cypress are both good exterior woods. Here are some trellis's and brackets we are using on a job. These are cypress. Its been very fun to see these installed. Note the huge pieces of wood. We went with Cypress because its a local material for LEED. I say we are really green, we took all the cypress we could find within 500 miles
        Attached Files
        Scott D. Brown, AIA | Senior Project Manager | Beck Group

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks for the info guys. This gives me a good starting point.

          Robert, this will be in Texas. So expansion and contraction will be an issue. I agree glue probably isn't the best option. Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, the closest distributer is in Miami. I'll need to go local if possible.

          Hirvio, why would it have to be ventilated? That worries me. :laugh:

          Scott, Western Red Cedar may be the way to go. It has to be cost effective for us, of course.

          I was hoping to build a metal framed wall, slap some OSB or plywood on the exterior, and nail up the boards. It looks like it won't be that simple. Which is why I started the thread. Keep the ideas coming guys!
          Dan

          Comment


            #6
            Ventilation means that you have to provide (concealed of course, and covered with mesh wire to prevent insects or small animals from entering) openings at the bottom and the top of construction, to let breeze of air inside of it. This way any humidity that eventually enters through construction will not condensate on the surface (like any ventilated facade).

            I was hoping to build a metal framed wall, slap some OSB or plywood on the exterior, and nail up the boards. It looks like it won't be that simple. Which is why I started the thread. Keep the ideas coming guys!
            I don't see that my method differ from your initial direction. You just have to take care of some details.

            This carpenter didn't listen, put some polyurethane or similar (as far as I remember) coating, and when the moisture from the wood tried to get out, it bursted through the joints:

            P4290001.JPG

            Comment


              #7
              What, the sub contractor didn't listen? Than NEVER happens.

              Wow, thanks for the insight.
              Dan

              Comment


                #8
                Well, I finally saw the buidling that the above pictures were taken at. It's basically a wood rain screen. Build a wall, use a weatherproof material for the exterior, like a hardi board. Then, attach clips that hold up the actual wood rain screen. The clips create the air gap the Hirvio was referring to. It's a pretty neat system and looks like it would be a snap to install, no pun intended.

                Again, thanks for the info guys. I'm finally on the right track.
                Dan

                Comment


                  #9
                  I think Hirvio was referring to having this entire enclosed space (build out) vented, not only an air gap between finish material and wall sheathing. Similar concept to venting enclosed attic or crawl space. If that space is relatively small, probably it doesn't have to be vented.
                  Just my two cents.

                  Comment

                  Related Topics

                  Collapse

                  Working...
                  X